The Key to Getting Thicker Eyebrows, According to the Pros

Education

Bold, thick brows have been taking center stage in recent years. For those of us envious of bushy arches — or perhaps are still dealing with the consequences of the over-tweezing of yesteryear — there’s still hope for realizing one’s dream of luscious arches. Thanks to the magic of eyebrow makeup, anyone can learn how to get thicker eyebrows. All it takes is the right products, tools and techniques. To help with that, we speed-dialed celebrity brow artist Joey Healy and Hollywood makeup artist Min Min Ma for their styling and shading tips and tricks for fuller brows.

Find the right eyebrow shade

Getting thicker eyebrows starts with choosing the right brow color. For people with darker hair and eyebrows, Ma recommends filling in brows with a color a shade or two lighter than your hair color, so eyebrows don't appear too intense or overpowering. If you have a fair complexion with light hair and eyebrows, she suggests going one or two shades darker than your brow color to help eyebrows stand out. One foolrproof way to determine the right shade is with Rose Inc's Virtual Try-On.

Healy warns against going too heavy handed or making eyebrows look too dark. "We're very self-critical when we think our brows are uneven or ends are too short," he says. "People tend to not notice those minor flaws besides us. What people do notice is a brow that is really filled in heavily with product because it tends to look inauthentic."

Ma gravitates towards a clear brow gel since it works well for everyone, no matter their brow shade.

Layer Brow Products

Using a combination of brow products is a pro secret to lush, thicker-looking brows. Both Ma and Healy like to layer brow powder with brow gel. Healy says that brow powder adds density and fills in holes and gaps, while brow gel defines the hair and holds it in place, notes Ma.

The order in which you apply brow powder and brow gel varies. For sparse brows, Ma likes to go in with powder first to create structure and definition, then add a coat of brow gel on top. For brows that are naturally bushy, she uses brow gel first and fills in any sparse areas with brow powder second.

Using tinted brow gel versus clear brow gel comes down to personal preference. Ma gravitates towards a clear brow gel since it works well for everyone, no matter their brow shade. On the other hand, Healy likes a tinted brow gel, which not only styles brow hairs but also helps make each individual hair stand out and appear thicker. "The [brow] powder goes on the skin behind the brow, while the tinted gel coats the individual hairs, giving a layered effect," Healy says.

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"Many people think in order to get an arch they have to take their tweezers and carve it out, but this could cause the brow to look too thin."

Use the right tools

Brow artistry is a skill that requires the right tools. For Healy, that includes a double-ended brow brush with an angled brush on one end to apply brow powder, and a spooly on the other to comb hairs and blend and distribute product evenly. For shaping brows, he adds that a good pair of tweezers and scissors are also a must in everyone's brow kit, but only for minimal grooming. "Many people think in order to get an arch they have to take their tweezers and carve it out," Healy says. "But this could cause the brow to look too thin."

IT'S ALL ABOUT TECHNIQUE

Tinted brow gel can be used alone, but how you apply it contributes to the final look. For a thicker look and more definition, Ma recommends adding more product around the arch to intensify the color. For the beginning of the brows, she advises using less product to give it more of a natural look.

For a darker, more dramatic look, first apply powder. "Start at the base of the brow," Ma says. "Lay the [angled brow] brush flat with brow powder on it and swipe upwards. Repeat with small strokes. Once you get to the arches, you can angle the brush and draw by following the arch."

Once your brow powder is set, come in with your brow gel and use the applicator to brush upward and make eyebrow hairs stand up, Ma says.

Use a cream highlighter

Another pro tip for thicker eyebrows: Add a bit of cream highlighter under the brow with your fingers. "It will give you more of a lift and arch without removing any hair," Healy says.