“Last year, we went to Rio with Tina, and maybe the day before I returned to Paris we went to a party at a really random club,” James explains about the inspiration for his final week in residency. “It wasn't that beautiful, it wasn't that fancy, but the music [was amazing and we wanted to dance]. The lights were super ugly in the beginning, turned beautiful at the end. It's what I wanted to express with this eye, because when you're having fun with your friends, everything can turn beautiful.”
For a bold eye look, save complexion products for last. “I started by framing the eyes with a dark blue eyeshadow, because if you don't do this, you don't have the intensity,” James says, noting that a pigmented base is vital when using bold sparkles or chunky glitter. Using a wet brush and Byredo Prismic Palette, he layered color over Kunakey’s lids.“I created a kind of large cat-eye,”James says. “Then I applied a little glue where I needed the sparkles and put them on. I go step-by-step because, of course, if you apply the glue all over, it's going to dry. The secret is not to apply too much sparkle, otherwise, it's too heavy.”(Be sure to only use glitter and sparkles designed for the eyes—not craft store glitter, which can cause irritation or injury.) Marc Jacobs Beauty Lash’d Lengthening & Curling Mascara in Blacquer 42 finished her eyes.
To bring the look together, James groomed Kunakey’s brows with Benefit Cosmetics Volumizing Eyebrow Gel and applied a light application of Charlotte Tilbury Light Wonder Foundation using a unique trick: He first buffed a mix of foundation and moisturizer all over her face with a sponge, then applied mix of foundation and concealer with his finger where additional coverage was needed. He finished the look with Pat Mcgrath Labs Lip Fetish Lip Balm. “The lips need a sheen to have the super dramatic moment,” he says.
Tina Kunakey photographed by Morgane Lay & Jonny Cochrane. Makeup and hair by Harold James. Written by Lexy Lebsack. Retouched by @retouch_club.