An Expert's Guide to Hyaluronic Acid

What is hyaluronic acid?

“HA is considered a humectant, which is a hydrating molecule that attracts water to the skin,” says Samantha Mims, aesthetician and founder of Dermasaa. Dr. Robinson adds that, “In our skin, it powerfully attracts moisture throughout the deeper layers and in other areas of the body.” This includes joints, where it acts to lubricate and cushion the body. “In dermatology, we also use injectable hyaluronic acid gels as an injectable filler to hydrate or re-volumize areas of loss.”

What are the benefits of HA??

Given that it’s so hydrating, hyaluronic acid is most beneficial to use for those with drier skin types. “It moisturizes and attracts more moisture to the skin at the same time,” Dr. Robinson says, nothing that it’s also safe for all skin types. Mims recommends HA for mature skin, too. “It’ll build skin collagen and reduce the signs of premature aging,” she says. For example, those who experience fine lines, “Hyaluronic acid can help to hydrate them, making lines look less apparent,” Dr. Robinson says.

When is the best time to use HA?

With the popularization of multistep-routines, determining what order to use which product and ingredient can feel intimidating. Mims suggests thinking of HA as a pre-moisturizer. In terms of timing and frequency, Mims says this: I believe in moderate use. Every other day or just a few times out of the week is enough.”

Dr. Robinson also agrees that too much of a good thing can sometimes have negative effects on the skin. “Many products, including moisturizers, now incorporate hyaluronic acid into their formulas,” she says. “This means that sometimes we are doubling and tripling up on this active ingredient in our skin care routines.”. In other words, always check the ingredients on all of the products in your routine. “Using too much hyaluronic acid can have the opposite of the intended effect on the skin and actually dry the skin out,” the docto adds.I recommend sticking to once or twice daily use in no more than one step in your routine, morning and night.”

What are the different types of HA?

A common form is hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. “This form of hyaluronic acid undergoes a slight chemical modification where the molecule is essentially ‘cut up’ into smaller pieces,” says Rose Inc’s KizovskiThis modification allows for the new, smaller versions to penetrate the skin deeper than virgin HA, while still focusing on surface level hydration.”.

Sodium hyaluronate, the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, is another form. “This version is known to penetrate the furthest into the skin due to its small size,” Kizovski adds.“This form of HA is small enough to penetrate through your pores and is known for prolonged stability within cosmetic formulations, making it extremely popular within the skincare world.”.

It is also important to note that HA can have different origins: from animal sources or, even created synthetically through bacterial fermentation.

How to apply HA

“The skin always better absorbs HA when it's applied directly onto damp skin,” Mims shares, reminding us that all products actually penetrate best when the skin is damp. “The best way to use HA is while the skin is clean and before your moisturizer.” Dr. Robinson adds. “[Applying it to damp skin]can help pull the moisture from the water on your skin into the skin as opposed to the other way around.”

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